There is nothing quite like the flavour of a tomato picked warm from the plant, still smelling of the stem. And you do not need a greenhouse to enjoy it. With the right varieties and a bit of forward planning, tomatoes will crop reliably outdoors in most parts of the UK, provided you give them the sunniest, most sheltered spot your garden can offer.

Find the Warmest, Most Sheltered Spot

Tomatoes are sun worshippers. They need at least six hours of direct sunshine a day, and they hate cold wind and chilly nights. A south- or south-west-facing wall or fence is ideal: brick, stone and timber absorb heat during the day and radiate it back after sunset, giving your plants a few precious extra degrees. A sunny patio works well too, especially if the pots sit on gravel or paving that soaks up warmth.

Look for the following when choosing your position:

• A warm wall or fence that blocks prevailing winds
• Avoidance of frost pockets — low ground where cold air settles
• Free drainage, so pots never stand in water
• Space to raise containers on pot feet or bricks for airflow underneath

If your only option is a more exposed spot, a temporary windbreak of fleece or netting can make a real difference, particularly in the first few weeks after planting.

Choose Bush or Cordon Varieties

Outdoor tomatoes fall into two groups, and knowing the difference saves a lot of confusion later. Bush (determinate) varieties stay compact, stop growing on their own and need no pinching out. They are perfect for pots, grow bags and windy sites, and they crop over a concentrated period. Reliable choices include 'Tumbling Tom', 'Red Alert' and 'Maskotka'.

Cordon (indeterminate) varieties grow tall as a single stem and produce fruit over a longer season, giving higher yields if you have the patience and the support. Good outdoor cordons include 'Gardener's Delight' for sweet cherry fruits and blight-resistant types such as 'Ferline' or 'Crimson Crush', which are worth their weight in gold in a wet August. In northern gardens or short seasons, an early bush variety often beats a late-ripening cordon hands down.

Plant Out and Support Early

Raise plants indoors from March or April, then harden them off over a week to ten days before planting out. Wait until night temperatures stay above about 10°C — usually late May in the south, early June further north. Cold nights check growth badly, so do not rush.

Plant one tomato per 30–40cm pot or grow bag, burying the stem up to the first set of leaves. Tomatoes root along the buried stem, which makes the plant far sturdier. Then, and this is the step most people regret skipping, put the supports in at planting time. Pushing a cane in later damages roots and sets the plant back.

• Use a 1.8m cane for each cordon and tie the stem in every 15cm with soft twine in a loose figure of eight
• Surround bush plants with three or four short canes and a loop of string to stop them flopping
• Water in well and mulch the surface with compost to hold moisture

Water Little and Often, Feed Once Flowers Set

Inconsistent watering is the main cause of split fruit and blossom end rot, so aim for even moisture. Water at the base, in the morning where possible, and never splash the leaves — wet foliage invites disease. In pots, that may mean watering twice a day during hot spells.

Feeding follows a simple rule. Until the first truss of flowers sets small fruits, plants need little beyond the compost. Once those tiny tomatoes appear, begin a weekly high-potash tomato feed, diluted as the bottle directs. By August, when plants are carrying several trusses, increase to twice weekly. Nitrogen-heavy feeds simply produce leafy plants with few fruits, so stick to a proper tomato formulation.

Pinch Out, Thin Out and Keep Air Moving

Cordon plants need weekly attention: pinch out the side shoots that appear between the stem and each leaf while they are still small, and remove any leaves below the first truss once fruits have set. In late July or early August, pinch out the growing tip two leaves above the top truss. This stops the plant stretching and pushes energy into ripening what is already there — especially useful in cooler regions.

Bush varieties need no pinching at all; simply remove yellowing leaves and any that touch the soil. Good airflow around the plants is your best defence against moulds and mildews.

Weather, Pests and the Final Ripening Push

Blight is the outdoor grower's chief enemy, spreading fast in warm, wet spells. Remove affected leaves immediately, never compost them, and choose resistant varieties if blight has struck before. Aphids and whitefly can be discouraged with a firm jet of water and by planting basil or French marigolds nearby to bring in beneficial insects.

Fruit ripens from July through to September. Pick when fully coloured and slightly soft; flavour is best from fruit ripened on the plant. As autumn closes in, bring any remaining green tomatoes indoors and lay them on a windowsill with a ripe banana, or in a paper bag, to ripen gradually. Any that refuse can be turned into chutney — a fitting end to a good season outdoors.